The Coonhound Learning Curve

By Sonia Yearwood

The scent of a raccoon should excite a coonhound.
If this significant trait is missing in you dog,
it can be developed and brought to the surface through effective training. 

THE FIRST WEEKS

You should begin puppy training as early as 5 weeks at age using a scented drag or coon tail. A coonhound puppy’s little nose ~will begin to work, and its play drive will motivate it to pursue the moving object. If you have a litter of puppies, they should he allowed to "mouth" their catch and play tug-of-war with it a~ a group. If you’re using the bottled scent, be careful not to overdo the application. Put only one or two drops on a coon tail while sealing it in a plastic hag for about an hour. Next, roll it around inside the hag. That’s all the pups will need to get a whiff of the scent they are about to pursue.
Once the hound has learned to follow the scent and to look up at the tree, you have programmed them for future lessons.

ideally, the puppies will come alive at the mere scent of the coon, and they’ll follow the trail, go to the tree, and become vocal.

Coonhound youngsters must always he successful in "catching" their prey. By the time they are 8 or 10 weeks old, they should be aware that the raccoon goes or the tree — and that’s where the scented drag should always be taken. This process teaches them to "look up." Ideally, the puppies will come alive at the mere scent of coon, and they’ll follow the trail, go to the tree, and become vocal. Since the idea is to get~ them interested in the scent rather than the sight of their prey, it’s important to have them treeing without seeing their prize. Of course, "the coon" will mysteriously come down out of the tree when they begin throwing hack their heads and treeing. Once they have learned to follow the scent and to look up at the tree, you have programmed them for future lessons. It done properly, they will never forget these early experiences.

The rules for training are based on teaching desired behavior. Praising correct reactions and sometimes ignoring unwanted activity ~hiring a lesson reinforces this. Harsh punishment should never be part of the training process~. The only correction that should be given is of the loud verbal variety for aggressive behavior toward other Jogs. While it is important that the aggressor be reprimanded, the other Jogs should not he intimidated by your corrections. Pups should never fear your hand they should move toward your touch. With positive reinforcement, your pups will crave their time spent with you.

It’s important to take your young dogs for walks to explore pastures, creeks and wooded areas. This will help them build confidence and become fast hunters as they gain experience navigating outdoor obstacles. These experiences will also help program them for later training. During this time, you will notice the difference in hunting instincts and the range of abilities within a litter. An interest in squirrels and rabbits demonstrates the traits that you will utilize as the training progresses.

TRAVEL

A key aspect of successful competition dogs is their ability to travel. They must be able to travel comfortably and arrive at an event ready to "hit the woods." Pups must be taught to load and ride, and should learn that they will he rewarded with a pleasant trip and an enjoyable destination. Loading lessons can even involve giving the dog a small food reward for its positive behavior. It should be repeated several times until the pup is confident about being in the dog box. As soon as the pup starts to anticipate loading by trying to jump up without help (even though it probably needs it), the time has come for taking it on short rides. The distance should be extended with each trip. However, make sure the dog is traveling on an empty stomach!

A dog with an upset stomach will not perform as required to he a winner. Some dogs travel better than others. Drooling is a good indication that the dog may be suffering from nausea. Administering a Pepto Bismol tablet .30 minutes before loading, and feeding three or more hours beforehand, can help eliminate motion sickness. Placing padding or bedding on the floor of the dog box will allow your dog to arrive at its destination rested and ready to perform to its full potential.

BUILDING ON THE FOUNDATION

If you have a pup that’s at least 4 or 5 months old, it should be programmed to recognize the scent of .i coon. When introduced to a coon in a rolling cage, the puppy’s nose should draw it in for a closer inspection. Once the pup is baying and chasing a rolling cage, it’s time to progress to the "pop-out" stage. Be sure you encourage and praise an enthusiastic reaction to the presence of a coon. The most effective way to build the trailing and treeing abilities of a pup is to make sure it succeeds, so make sure you’re generous with praise.

Usually, a coon released from the cage, with dogs harking nearby, will run up the first available tree. The most effective release is in the middle of a clearing, with the woods a reasonable distance away. Let the pups watch the coon run away, allowing enough time for it to reach the edge of the woods before releasing them. Ideally, the dogs will be barking and straining to give chase, and when cut loose, will race after the coon.

If they tree successfully, let them Live the coon. But they should not he fighting a live one at this training stage. If they trail, hut do not tree, consider the lesson a good start — especially if the pups show interest by searching. It is important to remember that the attention span of young dogs tends to he short.

The "pop-out" coon can he repeated as often as necessary to build confidence and to teach the trailing and treeing pattern, thus allowing more time for the coon to disappear as the pups gain experience. Some handlers never use the "pop-our" method because of the necessity of catching live coons, which is sometimes not an option available to everyone.

TRAINING BY EXAMPLE

An older, slower dog, which is straight on coon, is an excellent asset for training by example. However, your puppies must be old enough to keep tip and navigate through underbrush. Puppies that are left behind, wanting to be a part of the hunt, can develop the habit of babbling.

A good way to start is to turn the older dog out and let it tree. Then, if the distance is not too great, and the pup is focused on the sound of the treed dog, turn the pup loose. But if the pup doesn’t pay attention to the tree bark, walk him in on a leash and take him to the tree. Some pups will immediately join in, while others will stand and watch. As long as the pup is in tune to what is going on, you are experiencing progress. If the pup trees, this is the time to let it have a coon — hut nut a live one. You can tie the dog back and let him see the older dog shaking the coon, as long as it is not actively treeing.

HUNTING WITH YOUR PUPPY

When your pup understands the trailing and treeing process and it’s been at the tree with an older dog, it’s time to think about hunting it alone — especially if the dog has had its first strike or first tree. This means it’s truly hunting without using another’s abilities. The sooner you can begin hunting the dog by itself, the better. This will eliminate the "me too" situation of a dog that cannot or will not tree its own coon.

Some dogs are loud on track from the beginning, others develop a better mouth as they go to the woods each time. If you have a dog that is using his nose in the woods, opening once in a while, and showing up at the right tree, the potential is there, and certainly worth more trips to the woods.

Another rule to keep in mind while training is to always give your dog the benefit of the doubt. For example, if your dog has treed what you think to he a coon, and you see a possum on a lower limb (but it’s a huge leafy tree), don’t punish your Jog —there just might he a coon in the tree also. Simply lead the dog away without a word and without rough treatment. If you disc i— discipline it and the dog has really treed a coon, you have just told it not to tree a coon anymore. If in fact, it’s "treeing trash," you’ll have an opportunity to make a good correction when the situation is very clear.

Puppies mature at different rates. And while it is nice to have an early starter, remember that maturity and experience make the most consistent performers for competition hunts. A working dog with a wagging tail will give its all to please you, and you cannot measure the hunting heart of a loyal dog. 

Sonia Yearwood has competed with dogs for more than 40 years.

She’s a licensed judge and master of hounds for the AKC and UKC.

Yearwood competes in all categories of coonhound events in addition

to obedience, tracking and schutzhund.

November/December 1999 American Kennel Club's  Cooner's Corner, posted with permission from Louis DeVoltz.